Shakespeare In Love
I came to Holkham Bay to follow in the long vanished footsteps of Gwyneth
Paltrow, Viola in the film Shakespeare In Love. As the credits roll at the
movie's end, Paltrow strides across Holkham's yellow sand, cast as Twelfth
Night's Illyria.
Backed by low dunes and dark green conifer woods, Holkham Bay was bathed in
winter sun and playing host to kites, kids, walkers and dogs. However, so huge
is the bay that even in summer it is seldom crowded.
I sauntered past the broad sandy inlet of Holkham Gap, and continued along
the coast. The further I went, the fewer people there were, and as the tide fell
there was the feeling of being a tiny speck in a universe consisting of little
more than sand, sea and sky. The sand is firm underfoot; you can splash through
the shallows, and every now and again a small piece of flint or an unusual shell
or pebble will catch your attention and maybe end up in your pocket.
Another good walk is around Burnham Deepdale, six miles west of
Wells-Next-The-Sea, where you can enjoy some of Norfolk's high country. Since
most of Norfolk is only a few metres above sea level, the 60m hills above the
village pass for "uplands".
A round trip of about three miles takes you up through quiet fields,
hedgerows and woods to superb viewpoints at Barrow Common and Downs Woods. From
here, you can see miles of shoreline. Villages and hamlets with names as English
as warm beer straddle either side of the A149 as it runs along the coast -
Titchwell, Brancaster Staithe, Burnham Deepdale, Burnham Overy Staithe - all of
which lie before the mudflats, saltmarshes, sandbanks and the beach.
If you're more energetic, this whole stretch of coastline can be explored via
the 47-mile Norfolk Coast Path, which runs from Hunstanton to Cromer.
Film buffs will find another point of interest down the coast. Fields by
Burnham Deepdale stood in for Korea during the filming of the last James Bond
movie, Die Another Day.
· Deepdale Stables Backpackers Hostel (01485 210256,
deepdalefarm.co.uk). Dorms from
£10.50 per night; twins, triples, quads and tipis also available. In Burnham
Deepdale, the Jolly Sailors (01485 210314) offers good pub food in a cosy
atmosphere; the restaurant at the White Horse (01485 210262) overlooks the coast
and is great for sunset dining.
