Why go now...
To re-enact the rose-tinted seaside holidays of your childhood. The stretch
of north Norfolk coast between Brancaster and Weybourne has barely changed over
the past 50 years. This is the best of coastal England: vast beaches that
stretch to distant horizons, rolling sand dunes, little sailing harbours among
the creeks and salt marshes, and, just inland, gently rolling patchwork fields
edged by ancient oaks, churches and villages of pretty brick and flint cottages.
But the restaurants and delis have upped their game since the 1950s, making
the most of the local seafood, and there’s no hint of rationing in the area’s
chic shops and galleries. Book tickets and accommodation now for the North
Norfolk Music Festival (August 30-September 7,
www.northnorfolkmusicfestival.com).
Travel by...
Train from London Liverpool Street to Norwich, then Norwich to Sheringham
(0845 600 7245,
www.nationalexpresseastanglia.com) from where the CoastHopper bus service
runs regularly to all points west along the coast. Trains also go from King’s
Cross to Kings Lynn (www.firstcapitalconnect.co.uk)
and Peterborough to Norwich (www.eastmidlandstrains.co.uk)
. There are flights from regional UK airports to Norwich with Flybe (0871 700
2000, www.flybe.com) and
British Midland (0870 6070 555,
www.flybmi.com).
Stay at...
The ready-erected tepees at Burnham Deepdale (01485 210256,
www.deepdalefarm.co.uk) sleep up to six – and you can also bring your own tent
or opt for simple hostel-style accommodation at this attractive site just inland
from Brancaster Staithe. Meals are available at the excellent Deepdale Café
nearby. A tepee sleeping two costs £60 a night, or it’s £90 for a six-person
tepee.
Spend the morning…
On a boat trip from Morston (01263 740505, www.beansboattrips.co.uk) to see
the seal colony at Blakeney Point. Look out for common seal pups this month, as
well as terns and oyster catchers; adults £8, children £4. Other operators
include Temples (www.sealtrips.co.uk) and Bishop’s (www.bishopsboats.com). Or
combine seal viewing with sailing in Blakeney Harbour in a skippered wooden day
boat taking up to six people (01263 740704, www.norfolketc.co.uk; £68 for 90
minutes). Nearby at Wells-next-the-Sea is the charming Wells-Walsingham steam
railway (01328 711630, www.wellswalsinghamrailway.co.uk), which chugs for 30
minutes through fields and villages to the pilgrimage centre of Walsingham;
adult return £7.50, child £6.
Have lunch at...
Fishes, Burnham Market (01328 738588, www.fishesrestaurant.co.uk).
This popular restaurant has just become a café and seafood bar, now open from
9am (last orders 7pm). But it still serves the same excellent seafood; lobster
salad is a highlight (from £15).
Wiveton Hall, off the coast road between Blakeney and Cley, has a
charming, slightly eccentric café set among fields of soft fruit, with tables
looking across Cley marsh and beach. The menu features fruit grown on the farm
and home-reared pork and bacon. Pick your own fruit and veg there, too (01263
740515, www.wivetonhall.co.uk).
Arrive early at the White Horse, Brancaster Staithe (01485 210262,
www.whitehorsebrancaster.co.uk), to bag one of the sought-after outdoor
tables with views over the coast; local mussels with white wine, cream and
parsley, £7.95/£9.50. Or guarantee yourself a sea view by heading for the coast
with a picnic.
Stroll around...
Holkham Hall (01328 710227,
www.holkham.co.uk). The
local stately pile, home of the Earl and Countess of Leicester, has a
well-informed and enthusiastic staff; highlights include an impressive marble
entrance hall modelled on a Roman Temple of Justice and some fine Old Master
paintings and Brussels tapestries. Entry £7 per adult, £3.50 child; closed Fri
and Sat; limited opening from the end of September.
Alternatively, hire a bike from On Yer Bike cycle hire at Wighton,
near Wells-next-the-Sea (01328 820719, www.norfolkcyclehire.co.uk; from £8 per
adult for half a day) and visit some of north Norfolk’s remarkable churches:
those at Salthouse, Wiveton, Cley and South Creake are outstanding.
Buy...
Chi-chi homewares and furnishings, contemporary art and local seafood.
Burnham Market is great for browsing, as is the pretty little Georgian town of
Holt, about four miles inland from Blakeney.
Have dinner at...
Morston Hall, Morston (01263 741041, www.morstonhall.com). Chef Galton
Blackiston’s beautifully balanced, no-choice menu is unmatched in north Norfolk,
using fresh, local produce. Set dinner costs £52 per person.
Try the Hoste Arms, Burnham Market (01328 738777, www.hostearms.co.uk).
There’s always a buzz in this old coaching inn, marked by a good wine list and
well-prepared local food: plump oysters, £8.95; Gressingham duck breast with
confit cabbage and wild mushroom and truffle dressing, £15.25.
Wiveton Bell (01263 740101, www. wivetonbell.co.uk) is a refurbished
village inn with stripped beams and friendly, young staff serving above–average
pub food. Locally smoked haddock with spinach, mashed potato and mustard salad,
£12.95.
Stay up late at…
The pub – unless you manage to crash a party on the beach.
Recover at...
The coast. Walk from Burnham Overy Staithe along a causeway across the
marshes to a vast dune-backed beach. Or head for the magnificent beaches at
Holkham (featured in the closing scenes of Shakespeare in Love), Wells or
Brancaster.
At all costs avoid...
The busy, clogged and narrow coast road – especially if you’re on a bike.
